Keihin Cr Special Carburetor Tuning Manual High School
I don't race it I trail ride it with the occasional blast on a fire road or across an open field. I mix my fuel at 40:1 with Sunoco 94 and Yamalube 2-R oil and never have a problem at all with my bike. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Dave You can use either the stock CR piston or any one of a couple aftermarket pistons. If you go with an aftermarket piston (and I would), I'd go with the Wiseco.
Recharge the air set at 150 PSI into the reservoir right? Thank you, Douglas The size of the reservoir has nothing to do with the capacity it has to hold pressure. The tank I charge shocks out of is only about twice the size of your portable air tank yet it is charged to 2000 PSI. The thickness of the walls of the container are what determine how much pressure it can hold. The stock shock on some of the Honda XRs hold 285 PSI. As long as the circlips is seated in it's groove correctly, you won't have a thing to worry about.
Carburetor Jetting & Tuning Page of Information. Carburetor Help Page If you don't see the Information you need E-Mail Us: See Our Exploded Carb Views Page. Jetting Keihin Slide Carburetors. All Keihin carburetors are pre-jetted for bolt-on operation. Carburetors are jetted using stock motorcycles and watercrafts. Any major engine. The special hardware. I was the Valedictorian of my high school. As the expense and complications involved are not worth it for carburetor tuning. Rebuilt carburetors for Import & Domestic Cars/Trucks. Remanufactured carburetors for sale at the largest factory direct manufacturer of carburetors in California. We are your carburetor specialist!
Carburetor Tuning Lawn Mower
2: BE SURE TO REMOVE YOUR SPAM STOPPER! Or provide your correct email address in the body of the message!
Rubber parts, including float valves, accelerator pump diaphragms and power valves, can dry out and stiffen. When fuel is added at the start of the season, these components can fail, causing leaks, fuel level and richness problems, including loading up, plug fouling, and overflowing (which can be very dangerous on a boat). If you experience any type of carburetion problem on a boat or other seasonal engine, I recommend a full cleaning and rebuild of your Holley carburetor and replacement of all rubber fuel lines immediately and then each season afterwards. I have experienced the results of dried out fuel in the small idle passages of my own carb, so you will need to fully disassemble and clean all the passages on the carb, because simply replacing the parts without cleaning the carb will not make the result 100%. While it may be expensive, a boat that won’t run on your first outing of the season can be even worse, considering the amount of prep time, transportation cost, and how much your family will be let down if the boat won’t run right. Inconsistent idle speed. Many people lately have been asking me about idle problems where they will set the idle at 800 or so, then when they drive the car or boat, the idle only comes back to 1500 or so.
I ran into this exact symptom once with a '96 YZ 250. The thing that fixed the problem was cleaning the coil mounting tabs on the frame.
My Pinto's PVCR's were way too big, so I found a kit to let you install little Mikuni pilot jets into the metering block of your Holley to make the PVCR's smaller. The company went out of business after the owner passed away, so if anyone knows of someone still selling this kit, let me know! Now that you have the power valve mixture correct, try some different power valves. I like a 10.5 in my Pinto, because it pulls about 14 inches of Mercury going down the road, and the 10.5 comes in pretty quickly when going up slight inclines. Tip: Use a power valve that is about 2 inches of mercury below the LOWEST manifold vacuum reading you get on cruise and idle (in gear for automatics).
He has an ability to accomplish mission fast and defeat other opponent in less than no time. Wwe 2k13 pc game free download full version. The player who comes in front when this installment is launched is CM Punk which has very advance things rather than other players.
Anything bigger than that can vibrate a lot and be less durable than a stock motor. Check with Eric Gorr for the rundown on what your options are. Go to www.eric-gorr.com for the lowdown. MX Tuner Shiftless XR Hi there, thanks in advance for taking the time to read this.
If the closer link is not bent just right to touch the slot enough to fully close the secondaries, you will experience a situation where the idle speed will not come down after the secondaries are used. You will need to clean the throttle plate and/or rebend the closer link to get the secondaries closed properly. Sooty spark plugs and fouling. Having spark plugs foul out with dry sooty deposits is a direct result of excessive fuel.
Summit sells one for about $8. All 4010 and 4011 Holleys, and many newer 4150 and 4160 series carbs come from the factory with this power valve blowout protector. It is, however, recommended to plug SECONDARY power valves, due to the inconsistencies encountered with WOT, low vacuum operation, which is when the secondaries are open. Basically, the only time the secondaries are open is at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). At WOT, vacuum is very low, and the power valve is open, so it's really a waste to even run one in the secondaries.
The Problem: I just bought a 1982 (on the frame) XR250R (on the seat) or XR 250. The shifting was awful not shifting at all most of the time. Upon further inspection, I found that the shifter shaft moves in and out (towards the engine and away from the engine) about 1/3 of an inch. When the shifter is out it doesn't shift at all, but if it's in first gear then it shifts only to neutral and not to 2nd or even back to first. If the shaft is in (towards the engine) than it's shifts flawlessly but is extremely hard to get to go into neutral. I can continue to ride by pushing my foot in towards the engine and shifting or maybe putting a bunji cord around the shifter and hooking it to the skid plate but I would like to fix it instead. I'm sure you can understand that.
Mikuni produces various installation kits featuring the three sizes. They have promoted the HSR42 kits more than the larger ones and consider it to be their standard carburetor.
The hot side of the 12v wire hooks up to one tab on the choke, and the other tab of the choke goes to ground, usually one of the choke housing mount screws. I highly recommend putting a fuse of some sort in the line, because a failure of the bi-metal spring could cause an overload of the wire and a fire if there is no fuse in there somewhere, and typically ignition circuits are not fused. How to switch from automatic chokes to manual chokes. Automatic chokes and manual chokes do the same basic thing on Holleys, but use different linkages to do so. See the two photos below. If you swap one for the other, MAKE SURE you get the corresponding linkage for the end of the throttle shaft, because auto and manual chokes use different fast idle linkages. Auto chokes have an open vacuum port on the body of the carb that needs to be plugged/blocked for use with manual chokes.
Personally, I stay away from high priced synthetic fluids. Their big marketing ploy is that the synthetic fluid lasts longer before breaking down at a molecular level. You should change the fluid long before that occurs due to contamination anyways. Loc-Tite is used in places where a fastener isn't frequently removed, like an air box or other body plastic fastener. Anti-seize is used in places where a bolt is frequently moved, like a chain adjuster bolt. Anti-seize can also be used in places where dissimilar metals electrolysis occurs, such as a cylinder locating dowel pin. Concerning a factory mechanics credentials or qualifications.
The proper level of fuel is for the fuel to just touch the bottom of the sight hole without running out. Clear sight plugs are available, but I can no longer recommend using them, as they have a tendency to break off right at the o-ring. If the fuel does not just trickle out of the sight hole when you rock the car back and forth lightly, adjust the float up until it does. If you have a problem with gas just rushing out all over the place, or if you have a carb that drips fuel from the booster venturis at idle or when the engine is off, then you likely have a bad needle and seat assembly. These are removable from the top without having to remove the float bowl, a very fine feature of the Holley.
I have NO experience with any type of supercharger or turbocharger, so please don't ask me anything about your blower or turbo applications. The following few paragraphs is a set of rules I had to create because people were emailing me without enough information or asking really stupid questions that I had no way to answer. The rules didn't just happen overnight, nor were they something I wanted to do. But I kept getting questions from people who didn't do any reading or they asked a question I didn't have any way to answer.
I warm it up on choke when I start it and it idles longer, but will still cut. I have had it tuned up but it is still not fixed. I asked the dealer if the idle was too low but he said if that was the problem it wouldn't idle at all. What should I do?
Is this normal? Or could the reeds be bad or something? Thanks, Jeff Sounds like the exhaust is plugged. The noise coming out if the intake certainly isn't right. You may have a damaged reed but it would be a coincidence that it occurred with the wreck.
I don't use any lube on the end of the handlebar since it can attract dirt. Also check the carb slide for dirt or flaking of the chrome plating. Check the roller at the throttle assembly to make sure the cable isn't getting wedged between it and the housing. Yamaha has a recall on the '96 and newer YZ two strokes for this problem. The RM throttle is very similar and could do the same thing. The only other thing I can think of is if the cable is getting pinched somewhere such as the steering stops.
It's really starting to bug me. Absolutely, you'll probably end up at around a 48 pilot. It's amazing what a $5 piece of brass can do for the running quality of a bike. MX Tuner Hot Start Switch I have a Suzuki 1993 DR350S that runs fine and starts with two kicks, hot or cold, unless I stall it on some nasty trail or crash. Then I have to let it cool down about a half hour or find a good hill to get it going. Would a hot start switch help on a CV carb?
You'll be able to ride that bike for a long time without worrying about outgrowing it. Gas Gas also makes an excellent off-road bike but there may not be quite as many dealers around for the Gas Gas. One dealer who has outstanding support all over the country is Jim Cook at Smackover Motorsports in Arkansas. He is a rare breed of person and can be trusted to sell you what you need and not what he can make the most money on. He may have a demo or a year old bike for sale. Go to www.smackovermotorsports.com for more info on some excellent bikes. MX Tuner 84 Honda XR250R I just put on a new 280 kit and rebuilt the carb to the best of my ability.
It cranks, runs a few minutes then fouls. It is a little dirty down low, but once it revs up, it rocks. I have owned the bike for a year, and have tried minor carb adjustments and plugs to correct the problem. I am ready to take action. I just don't know what to change. I take the bike down in December for maintenance, and plan to make my changes then. Could you offer any insight to my problem, and possible fix?
MX Tuner Split Air Filter Damage MX tuner, I am having problems with a 2000 CR125, the problem started when the bikes air filter had and split in the seam that was missed when cleaning and subsequently sucked in a lot of dust. The dust appeared to have filed down the ring so that I had no compression. I have since completely rebuilt the top end with new piston, ring, and wrist pin and bearing. I flushed the bottom end and checked for play in the rod and case bearings and they appear to be ok. The cylinder was not scored and there is a minimal amount of discoloration on the intake side of the cylinder with no scratches. With only about three to four hours on the bike it appears to have done the same thing the piston looks fine, the cylinder looks fine but the compression ring is showing sings of extreme wear resulting in little to no compression.
I can kick all day sometimes and nothing. I will let it sit for a day and 3 or 4 kicks and it starts right up. I run 40:1 gas mix. Windows 7 extreme edition r1 32 bit product key. It has a FMF expansion chamber and spark arrestor. I believe everything else is stock. That's what the previous owner told me anyway.
MX Tuner Cracked Case? I have a 2000 CR 500 and am in the process of rebuilding the top end. I noticed what appear to be cracks on both case halves. The cracks are near the holes that lead down to the crank bearings.
Not all Holleys have the same ports, but you can tell by location and size what each one does. Any port at the very bottom of the carb (in the aluminum baseplate) will pull manifold vacuum, which is strongest at high vacuum situations such as idle and slowing down, and weakest at low vacuum situations such as wide-open-throttle (WOT). Common manifold vacuum connections at the bottom of the carb are PCV (usually a 3/8' diameter tube) and EGR/distributor retard/smog device hookups (usually smaller tubes under the primary fuel bowl). The other type of vacuum connection on a Holley is ported vacuum, which is weak at idle, strong at cruise, and weak at WOT.
Sounds like you have either an air leak, some carburetor jetting issues or a combination of both. Once you get these issues straightened out, you should be able to develop a normal starting procedure. You need to check for an air leak.
Dellorto 19 Carburetor Tuning Manual
No warning just instantly died. I replaced the fouled plug (very black at the tip) with another loaner and went home.
We bought the bike off a friend and he did not have the manual. We would like to know what is the regular size piston that goes with the bike, as I cannot find the exact year it was made in on the Internet. We've tried to figure out what size the piston is, but to no avail. Please help with the piston size.
As you can see, the slope around 400mv, which is 14.7:1, or perfect combustion, is very steep. This is why only computerized fuel injection systems can really hold anything close to 400mv. If you're wondering about how a sensor can read oxygen content in rich mixtures where there is no extra oxygen, the sensor begins to act as a temperature sensor above 400mv. Vacuum gauges You will need a gauge to read the manifold vacuum on your engine.
Go to www.mx-tech.com for some info on lowering your bike. Ask for Jeremy and tell him MX Tuner sent you. MX Tuner Triple TTRed Hey, me again. TTR225, boys both have TTR125s. I'm looking for basic information on servicing the bikes and also, 1 of the TTR125's shocks are low on fluid, but I can't seem to find a tool to get the plug/screw out, any ideas? Also, I haven't gone to Whisenhunt yet, because I'm not sure if my boys can handle it.no-one seems to give me a straight answer (they are 10 and 12, and all we do is trail ride and small jumps, nothing wicked) anyways, thanks in advance, Jon Jonathan Your owners manual should give most of the info you need. If not, Yamaha offers a shop manual that will go through the entire bike, from one end to the other.
In recent tests, the engine vibrations caused the dwarves to evacuate the Harley Davidson test vehicle and make a beeline for the nearest BMW dealership. Sadly, BMW's are fuel injected and so the poor dwarves met an unfortunate end in the rollers of a Bosch fuel pump.
Start stepping the jets up or down, one step at a time, and drive the car around for a day or two. Do not make large changes on your jetting. You can't just throw any jets in there because you think it needs to go one way or the other.
Knowing what circuit is flowing at what time is very important to your tuning ability. Vacuum Secondaries Vacuum secondaries allow a person to run a carb that most people believe might be too big for a particular engine. By playing with various secondary springs, you can tailor the secondary opening point and rate of your carb, and can even make them to where they don't open all the way. This allows you to use a carb that might be too big for your application.
The diaphragm housing with the removable top is highly recommended. Trying to align the screw holes while keeping the spring compressed is a quick way to pinch off and tear the diaphragm. One or two torn diaphragms is enough to pay for the quick change kit. I know this from experience. On some Holley's, there is a steel check ball in the passage that actuates the diaphragm. Leave it there. If you take it out, the secondaries are likely to flop open very quickly and give you a bog.
Eric Gorr is a wizard with those. Go to www.eric-gorr.com for more info. MX Tuner Help I've Crashed And It Won't Start Up I have 1997 Honda CR250R that I recently wrecked and haven't ridden in about 3 weeks. When I wrecked it broke off part of the rear subframe and tore the silencer off. I ended up riding the bike back home without the silencer and that is the last time the bike ran.
Thanks for your time. Geoff - Southeastern Michigan Your starting technique may need some fine-tuning.
The best advice I can give is to get books and READ THEM! The guys who publish the carb tuning books are experts who get paid to do this kind of work.
This is akin to adding a squirt gun's flow into a garden hose's flow.the fine amount of the squirt gun is so insignificant compared to the garden hose, that there is no way that adjusting the flow of the squirt gun will make any difference. There are several ways to fix this problem: 1. If your engine is worn, or has a big vacuum leak, you should fix those problems before trying to crutch your carb. Sometimes, with worn engines or one with a vacuum leak, the carb must be opened quite a bit just to get the engine to run. Buy the right sized carb!
You always want to go a bit rich, as excessively lean mixtures will cause damage to your engine, create pollution, and give you bad gas mileage and performance. You can do this without a meter, but it's a bit tougher. Start with the factory jetting and proper float levels. Drive it around for a while, noting if the engine surges at highway speeds. Take a look at the plugs. If they are sooty, you may need to lean out the main jets. If the plugs are white, you may need to richen the main jetting.
Since the Holley is lacking in so many things that the Quadrajet excels at, I recommend to anyone who is thinking of putting a Holley spreadbore on any engine: Don't! If you have a spreadbore intake, use a Rochester Quadrajet. If you really want a Holley, change the intake manifold to use a squarebore Holley. Don't use adapters, either!
MX Tuner PW80 Woes!!! 1999 Yamaha PW80. Problem: The bike is hard to crank but it will crank.
The volume of shot is affected by the pump cam. Fuel Filter Information There are a lot of fuel filters to choose from, but one popular one is dangerous to use. This unit is tightened together, and relies on o-rings to seal against fuel pressure. As the parts age, the o-rings dry out and crack, causing leaks. Additionally, the clear part is glass, and is not safe to use. I recommend the one-piece clear fuel filter shown below. These are inexpensive (less than $5) and have been in use successfully for years.
Paint by the great guys at Cross Customs, East Kirkby. Just got the frame back from blasting and powdercoating. Great job by Tuff Coat, Kings Lynn, 54, ask for rachel or stew! Theframe is a Kosman Prostock chassis, from way back in 1990. Built in the USA by star racing for the UK's Wayne Saunders, who raced it at a couple of NHRA meets that year,before bringing it home to dominate the uk and european scene for the next 2 years. It was then campaigned by Dave Beck for several years and several ACU championships. We are building it with new running gear, fresh 1640cc 16v motor, more details as they happen!